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The Edit: Jasmine Junkie

August 14, 2017

The Accords Jasmine EditIn case you didn’t get the memo, jasmine is here to notify you that spring is officially about to kick winter in the butt. If you ask me, there’s nothing sweeter than those first wafts of the tiny blossom’s hypnotic scent lingering on a suddenly not-icy evening. (I like to think of them as giving an olfactory high-five to frosé, playsuits, and extra helpings of Nars’ Laguna, $57.) Perfume specialist (and fellow jasmine lover) Victoria Frolova of boisdejasmin.com is on the same page: “It’s a complex, rich note with many nuances, such as green, fruity, even leathery. It lends itself to many interpretations.”

In perfume speak, a big part of what gives jasmine its signature cross-the-street-to-sniff character is a curious chemical called indole. Released as jasmine petals start to wilt and brown, it acts as a desperate come-hither to insects that might pollinate the plant’s flowers. Turns out, jasmine-spiked scents have a similar affect on us. “Almost all jasmine perfumes are indolic,” explains Frolova. When isolated in a lab, indole smells more like mothballs than anything else, but “a tiny amount is all it takes to infuse life into a composition of floral notes; to make an abstract, vague petal-y form appear as a lush, nectar-suffused flower.”

In sum, depending on the cocktail of notes paired with jasmine, it can come off as light and pretty, a little musky or straight-up dirty. In celebration of spring’s heroine flower, I’ve pulled together some of the best jasmine scents out there and ranked them on an indole-o-meter from sweet to sexy AF.

Jasmine Perfume Review | Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint Cologne | The Accords Jasmine Edit

Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint Cologne
Now, I’m not saying this smells like toothpaste. (Really, it doesn’t.) But there is something gorgeously refreshing about it, like running your tongue over squeaky-clean teeth. The addition of zingy mint to bright jasmine creates a vibrant cologne that’s rounded out with  dry, light cedar and a touch of spice. One spritz totally evaporates even the mere mention of Jasmine’s salacious reputation.

Jasmine Perfume Review | The Body Shop Indian Night Jasmine | The Accords Jasmine EditThe Body Shop Indian Night Jasmine
This budget-friendly juice is lovely and fresh, opening up with jasmine’s best mate orange blossom. You’ll also smell dewy violet leaf, the flower’s steady companion right through this oriental-on-L-plates scent. Perfect for Saturday strolls or post-gym, this is one you can spray with abandon. Layer it with the matching lotion for jasmine coverage all-over. *winks*

Jasmine Perfume Review | Grandiflora Madagascan Jasmine Stephanotis | The Accords Jasmine EditGrandiflora Madagascan Jasmine Stephanotis
Trust a professional flower wrangler to nail jasmine perfume. This is Sydney florist Saskia Havekes’ third fragrance, a collaboration with French perfumer Michel Roudnitska, done pen-pal style. (Havekes sent him jasmine to study, he sent her samples until they nailed the blend). The waxy, fleshy Madagascan jasmine variety of this dreamy bloom creates a soliflore (a perfume dedicated to a single floral note), which is super-sensual but cool at the same time with a moody, lush character like like floating down a moon-lit tropical river.

Jasmine Perfume Review | Givenchy Dahlia Divin Le Nectar De Parfum | The Accords Jasmine EditGivenchy Dahlia Divin Le Nectar De Parfum
Nectar is an apt description of this ambrosial liquid. Once the temperature gauge starts topping out as we head into the summertime, this sensual blend of jasmine, mimosa (that’s wattle flower to you) vanilla, rose, sandalwood and musk will come into its own. (And you will have me to thank for it.) This is jasmine whipped into a swoon-worthy syrup.

Jasmine Perfume Review | Annick Goutal Songes | The Accords Jasmine Edit

Annick Goutal Songes
Ooooh, this is so sexy. Like a vacay on a breezy island paradise, you’ll pick up luscious tropical notes of frangipani and tiare before jasmine takes centre stage. (Vibes: The sun has set and it’s time for a lil’ dirty dancing with that boy you’ve been flirting with all holiday long.) Songes handles all the sweaty, animalic aspects of jasmine by rounding them out with a creamy base of vanilla, creating a soft bed for all that sizzle.

Jasmine Perfume Review | Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette | The Accords Jasmine Edit

Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette ($185)
This one is not for the faint-hearted, but if you want your jasmine served up a little trashy, accept the dare offered by never-boring Etat Libre d’Orange. Here the jasmine notes have been purified to add an airy lightness, then spun together with dry, acrid notes of smoke and tobacco. Apparently inspired by classic sirens of the silver screen, I’m betting this is what a Madonna film clip set smelled like circa Justify My Love.

Jasmine Perfume Review | Serge Lutens A La Nuit | The Accords
Serge Lutens A La Nuit, $152
Narcotic. That’s the most common description of this classic perfume, so if addiction takes hold know you were warned. This baby gets top indole billing, the jasmine sexed up with musk and benzoin, and dripping with spiced honey. A La Nuit also flips the script with green notes at the base of the fragrance, teasing you with freshness just when you think you can’t bear the hypnotic beauty for a moment more.

Jasmine Perfume Review | Rodin | The Accords

 

Rodin Olio Lusso Perfume
Just stop right here because, frankly, this is the one. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of using Linda Rodin’s cult face oil you’ll be familiar with the scent of her products. The stand-alone perfume version means you can douse yourself in her perfect blend of jasmine, neroli and lily of the valley any time. Sumptuous, elegant and stunningly simple, it’s guaranteed to satiate even the most intense jasmine cravings. Olio Lusso will have people crossing the street for you.

 

This story originally ran on Byrdie as Sweet vs. Sexy: Which Spring Scent is Right For You?

 

Filed Under: Features, Floral Tagged With: Annick Goutal, Etat Libre d'Orange, givenchy, Grandiflora, indole, jasmine, review, Rodin, round up, serge lutens, sexy, spring, Sydney, the body shop

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Comments

  1. Richard Goller says

    August 31, 2017 at 2:05 am

    What a great post! I have a thing for jasmine too. Thanks. R

    • Rosalind Thomas says

      August 31, 2017 at 9:53 am

      Thanks Richard! Do you have a favourite jasmine frag? x

THE ACCORDS

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